There is a beautiful feeling of serenity at the spectacular former Incan city of Machu Picchu. The long road through the Andes to this remote paradise is not so well acclaimed, but is also very special. This is a journey unlike any you will ever have undertaken before, and it will stay with you forever. Getting to the jewel of the Sacred Valley can be costly and time consuming, but it is a journey which is to be enjoyed rather than endured. This is my 6-part travelogue, revealing the highlights of the road to Machu Picchu, including Cusco.
Machu Picchu – One of the most beautiful places in the world
Cusco
Often referred to as the cultural and architectural capital of South America, Cusco was the capital of the former Inca empire, and in more recent times has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting over 2 million visitors per year.
Sitting at almost 11,500 feet, this cosmopolitan capital of the Andes serves as the epicenter of Inca tourism. Any trip to Machu Picchu, The Sacred Valley and The Inca Trail, will include at least a passing visit to Cusco.
Having lost a day owing to being stuck in snow en route at 14,000 feet, I had only a few hours to catch a glimpse of Cusco. I arrived after sun down, and immediately took a stroll around the obvious first port of call: the Plaza de Armas. I was greeted by a statue in honor of Pachacuti, the Inca emperor for whom apparently, Machu Picchu was constructed as an Andean sanctuary.
Statue of Inca Emperor Pachacuti
I did not get much further before having to buy a chullo (traditional Peruvian hat with tassels, which made from the wool of the alpaca). I had come from the warmer climes of Arequipa in the south, and although I had gone through a snowstorm en route, the cooler temperature and rain in Cusco were something of a shock. The weather at this altitude can be unpredictable, so I would advise anyone visiting the area to prepare for four seasons.
My nocturnal ramble through the cobbled streets of old town Cusco was cut short by even heavier rain, and I made my way back to the Hotel del Inca, stopping along the way with a street vendor to buy some hot herbal tea. This brew of cocoa leafs fused with various local herbs is used for acclimatization to the altitude, and as a general health supplement. It certainly warmed me up, and possibly helped in preventing altitude sickness, but I remain skeptical about recommending it. Although the beverage is popular in South America, I have since learned that it is not legal outside of the continent owing to the raw cocoa element. Who knew.
Back at the hotel I climbed under what seemed like far too many woolen blankets, and fell into one of the best sleeps I’ve had in years. I don’t often remember dreams, but that night I dreamt that I was hiking through the Andes, discovering ancient ruins unseen by modern man. Maybe the herbal brew had some impact after all.
I awoke the following morning feeling very well rested. Pulling back the curtains, I discovered the nice surprise of seeing a beautiful view out over the neighboring rooftops to the Andes Mountains in the background. Something about that panorama made me stop and appreciate the marvelous journey that I was undertaking. I stayed with that moment, and also practiced The Paris Method, and it really set me up for a great day.
Panoramic view from the hotel room in Cusco, Peru
After breakfast I went back to the Plaza de Armas, and visited the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin. After almost 100 years under construction, this gothic-renaissance church was finally completed in 1654, and today not only serves as a place of worship, but as a museum for local Incan artifacts and as an art gallery. It is very well worth a visit. Just be careful not to use your camera inside, as there is a strictly enforced no-photography policy for some reason.
The old Cathedral at Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
Just across the Plaza de Armas is the National University of Saint Anthony the Abbot. The notion of the university was proposed by Pope Innocent XII, supported by Spain’s King Charles II. It was eventually established in 1692 just decades after the Conquistadors had beaten the Inca’s following the Siege of Cusco. These days the university has 29 academic departments, 37 professor chairs, and amongst other disciplines, has been to the fore of research and documentation of the ancient cultures of the area, and the Andes in general.
Cobbled streets around the Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
The courtyard in the National University, Cusco, Peru
My time in Cusco was unfortunately too short, but it has left me with a strong desire to return and explore the city further. It would be no stretch of the imagination to suggest that you could spend a week based in Cusco and still not see everything the city and surroundings have to offer. For now though, it was time to leave, and edge closer to Machu Picchu.
Have you read the other posts in this series?
Part 1: Arequipa
Part 2: Arequipa to Cusco
Part 4: Cusco to Ollantaytambo
Part 5: Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes