Tag Archive Cusco

There is a beautiful feeling of serenity at the spectacular former Incan city of Machu Picchu. The long road through the Andes to this remote paradise is not so well acclaimed, but is also very special. This is a journey unlike any you will ever have undertaken before, and it will stay with you forever. Getting to the jewel of the Sacred Valley can be costly and time consuming, but it is a journey which is to be enjoyed rather than endured. This is my 6-part travelogue, revealing the highlights of the road to Machu Picchu, including Chinchero.

Machu Picchu – One of the most beautiful places in the world

Cusco to Ollantaytambo

The anticipation and excitement ahead of the onward journey to Machu Picchu is probably the only thing that softens the disappointment you feel when it is time to leave Cusco. The capital of the Andes has a strong magnetic lure, and leaves you wanting more. But it was time to leave, and head further north. Further into the Andes. And closer still to Machu Picchu.

The journey from Cusco to the wonderfully named Sacred Valley town of Ollantaytambo takes approximately 90 minutes. Although the city stands at over 11,500ft, and Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude, the road ascends further on the first section of the trip. This is because Ollantaytambo, and The Sacred Valley are on the other side of a vast upland plateau which must be traversed. From the centre of Cusco, the road corkscrews up through some of the city’s poorest neighborhoods, notably Los Huertos and Chanachayoc, where stereotypical South American shanty huts cling to the steep hillside.

Young woman in poorer district of northern Cusco, Peru

Selling bananas on the street at Los Huertos, Cusco, Peru

Woman in Chanachayoc District of Cusco, Peru

After tipping over the top of the mountain, the road then descends for several miles, before eventually flattening out as it crosses the magnificent Anta Plateau. This is home to some of Peru’s finest agricultural lands.

The town of Chinchero, at an altitude of 14,500 feet, is of particular interest, for it is here that a window into South America’s ancient past can be seen. The town’s 15,000 strong population, their language and culture, are almost entirely of Quechuan descent, which predates the Spanish conquistadors, and even the Incan empire. The townspeople can still be seen wearing traditional attire, and the area is noted for it’s self sufficiency and handmade arts and craft markets. There are also many Incan sites in the locality which are of great cultural significance.

The road through Chinchero district, near Cusco, Peru

Two ladies in traditional attire, waiting for a bus at Chinchero, near the city of Cusco in Peru.

Having lost a day on the trip due to being stuck in snow at high altitude en route from Arequipa, my tour guide had arranged for a taxi to take us on this journey as opposed to the tour bus as originally planned. As with many of the aspects of the trip, the contingency plan actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise, because we now had not only a driver, but a personal guide. The taxi driver, an amicable man called Aurturo, had great pride in his home region and was happy to discuss the points of interest along the route.

After telling me about all of the traditional culture in Chinchero, Aurturo then told me that the adjacent plateau is the site of a planned new international airport which will completely open up the area to yet more tourists. By 2025 people living near a major airport will be able to fly to within an hour of Machu Picchu and The Sacred Valley. We had a constructive debate about the merits of this development.

The agricultural plateau near Chinchero, soon to be home to Cusco International Airport

There is no doubt that the huge new international airport will bring more tourists to Machu Picchu, and create business opportunities for locals. But it will also dilute the ancient and unique ambience of Chinchero, filter people away from Cusco, put Machu Picchu itself under logistical strain and deprive visitors such as myself of seeing the beautiful panoramas on the more remote roads through the Andes.

Sill, progress is progress. Aurturo welcomed the news, but later admitted that this opinion was from a business perspective. He revealed that he may have plans to operate a private bus company to engage with the expected international tour operators. The airport project is being funded mostly by German and Brazilian venture capitalists. In truth, while progress is to be welcomed, I felt sad that Chinchero, one of the last fully authentic towns in the area, may soon be transformed in the name of globalization and mass tourism.

Arriving in The Sacred Valley, in the Andes Mountain range Peru en route to Machu Picchu

Having crossed the massive plateau, we finally came within sight of the Sacred Valley, and began the hair-raising descent through a series of corkscrews into Urubamba, the town which shares it’s name with the river which flows through the valley in the direction of Machu Picchu. The last leg of the trip, was to follow the river northwards for several miles to the small but bustling town of Ollantaytambo, where along with many other backpackers and tourists, we would take the iconic train journey to Aquas Calientes. By now, the excitement of approaching Machu Picchu was making it almost impossible to fully enjoy the surroundings along the route.

Have you read the other posts in this series?

Part 1: Arequipa

Part 2: Arequipa to Cusco

Part 3: Cusco

Part 5: Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes

Part 6: Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)

There is a beautiful feeling of serenity at the spectacular former Incan city of Machu Picchu. The long road through the Andes to this remote paradise is not so well acclaimed, but is also very special. This is a journey unlike any you will ever have undertaken before, and it will stay with you forever. Getting to the jewel of the Sacred Valley can be costly and time consuming, but it is a journey which is to be enjoyed rather than endured. This is my 6-part travelogue, revealing the highlights of the road to Machu Picchu, including Cusco.

Machu Picchu – One of the most beautiful places in the world

Cusco

Often referred to as the cultural and architectural capital of South America, Cusco was the capital of the former Inca empire, and in more recent times has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting over 2 million visitors per year.

Sitting at almost 11,500 feet, this cosmopolitan capital of the Andes serves as the epicenter of Inca tourism. Any trip to Machu Picchu, The Sacred Valley and The Inca Trail, will include at least a passing visit to Cusco.

Having lost a day owing to being stuck in snow en route at 14,000 feet, I had only a few hours to catch a glimpse of Cusco. I arrived after sun down, and immediately took a stroll around the obvious first port of call: the Plaza de Armas. I was greeted by a statue in honor of Pachacuti, the Inca emperor for whom apparently, Machu Picchu was constructed as an Andean sanctuary.

Statue of Inca Emperor Pachacuti

I did not get much further before having to buy a chullo (traditional Peruvian hat with tassels, which made from the wool of the alpaca). I had come from the warmer climes of Arequipa in the south, and although I had gone through a snowstorm en route, the cooler temperature and rain in Cusco were something of a shock. The weather at this altitude can be unpredictable, so I would advise anyone visiting the area to prepare for four seasons.

My nocturnal ramble through the cobbled streets of old town Cusco was cut short by even heavier rain, and I made my way back to the Hotel del Inca, stopping along the way with a street vendor to buy some hot herbal tea. This brew of cocoa leafs fused with various local herbs is used for acclimatization to the altitude, and as a general health supplement. It certainly warmed me up, and possibly helped in preventing altitude sickness, but I remain skeptical about recommending it. Although the beverage is popular in South America, I have since learned that it is not legal outside of the continent owing to the raw cocoa element. Who knew.

Back at the hotel I climbed under what seemed like far too many woolen blankets, and fell into one of the best sleeps I’ve had in years. I don’t often remember dreams, but that night I dreamt that I was hiking through the Andes, discovering ancient ruins unseen by modern man. Maybe the herbal brew had some impact after all.

I awoke the following morning feeling very well rested. Pulling back the curtains, I discovered the nice surprise of seeing a beautiful view out over the neighboring rooftops to the Andes Mountains in the background. Something about that panorama made me stop and appreciate the marvelous journey that I was undertaking. I stayed with that moment, and also practiced The Paris Method, and it really set me up for a great day.

Panoramic view from the hotel room in Cusco, Peru

After breakfast I went back to the Plaza de Armas, and visited the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin. After almost 100 years under construction, this gothic-renaissance church was finally completed in 1654, and today not only serves as a place of worship, but as a museum for local Incan artifacts and as an art gallery. It is very well worth a visit. Just be careful not to use your camera inside, as there is a strictly enforced no-photography policy for some reason.

The old Cathedral at Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru

Just across the Plaza de Armas is the National University of Saint Anthony the Abbot. The notion of the university was proposed by Pope Innocent XII, supported by Spain’s King Charles II. It was eventually established in 1692 just decades after the Conquistadors had beaten the Inca’s following the Siege of Cusco. These days the university has 29 academic departments, 37 professor chairs, and amongst other disciplines, has been to the fore of research and documentation of the ancient cultures of the area, and the Andes in general.

Cobbled streets around the Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru

The courtyard in the National University, Cusco, Peru

My time in Cusco was unfortunately too short, but it has left me with a strong desire to return and explore the city further. It would be no stretch of the imagination to suggest that you could spend a week based in Cusco and still not see everything the city and surroundings have to offer. For now though, it was time to leave, and edge closer to Machu Picchu.

Have you read the other posts in this series?

Part 1: Arequipa

Part 2: Arequipa to Cusco

Part 4: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Part 5: Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes

Part 6: Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)