There is a beautiful feeling of serenity at the spectacular former Incan city of Machu Picchu. The long road through the Andes to this remote paradise is not so well acclaimed, but is also very special. This is a journey unlike any you will ever have undertaken before, and it will stay with you forever. Getting to the jewel of the Sacred Valley can be costly and time consuming, but it is a journey which is to be enjoyed rather than endured. This is my 6-part travelogue, revealing the highlights of the road to Machu Picchu, including Arequipa.

Machu Picchu – One of the most beautiful places in the world

Arequipa

From my home in Letterkenny, County Donegal, Ireland, I had taken a bus to Dublin Airport, an Aer Lingus flight over the Atlantic Ocean to New York City, a subway train to rest up in central Queens (albeit for 2 months!), a taxi ride back to JFK Airport to board the overnight LAN flight to Lima, and a connecting LAN flight to the city of Arequipa in southern Peru.

Arequipa is a little bit off most people’s tourist trail, but is very well worth a visit. Other Peruvians joke that to live in Arequipa you need a different passport! This capital of the south, with an elevation of over 7,600 feet, has a proud reputation for some of the best cuisine, music, art and culture in all of Peru.

You completely forget that you are at such an altitude, but it is this elevation, latitude and the strategic position between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes which gives Arequipa a relatively constant climate. The days are comfortably warm and sunny, while the nights are much cooler, with wonderfully clear skies.

Where the terrain in this upland arid region allows, there is a superb year-round supply of fresh fruit and vegetables. As an Irishman who is somewhat critical of potato quality in other parts of the world I have to say the local produce in Arequipa is delicious!

The name Arequipa is thought to stem from either the Aymara Indian words ‘Ari’ (summit), and Quipa: (laying behind), or the immortal words of visiting Inca Mayta Capac, who upon discovering the settlement and admiring the beauty of the area and it’s prominence as a potential Inca city between the Pacific Ocean and Cusco, uttered the words ‘”Ari, quipay!” translated as “Yes, stay!”. Either or both possible sources of the current name seem quite apt.

There is less ambiguity regarding the origins of the nickname ‘The White City’. Arequipa’s impressive array of historic baroque buildings, most notably around La Plaza Mayor, which is also known as Plaza de Armas (as are all central plaza’s in Peru) are constructed from sillar; the unique type of whitish volcanic rock found in the area.

Having been almost completely destroyed by powerful earthquakes and volcanic eruptions in 1600, 1687 and 1868, the city has always re-emerged from the very rocks which both solidify and threaten its foundations, each time coming back stronger and more proudly determined. One such reincarnation, which was made official on August 15th 1540 is celebrated with great pride as the city’s anniversary. This includes a week long fiesta of song, dance, fireworks and general merriment.

Arequipa has served as a pre-Incan Native Indian settlement, an Incan city of great geographical significance, a Spanish colonial stronghold, capital of Peru (1835-1883) and always as both an administrative district for industry and trade and as a cultural center.

There is much to see in this beautiful city, and the extended region, with the shrine of The Virgin of Chapi, the splendid Andean gem of Colca Canyon with its famous hovering condors, Lake Titicaca, Pacific coastal town of Camana and geological highlights including Canters de Sillar, all within easy reach. Needless to say, you will not fail to notice the powerful influence of the three volcanoes; El Misti, Chachani and Picchu Picchu, which almost cradle Arequipa with a snow-capped crown.

Chachani, part of Arequipa’s snow-capped crown

You will also be affectionately drawn to the warm and friendly townspeople. The pride which is so often mentioned, and even revered by fellow Peruvians, is heart-warming. In no place that I have ever been have I ever met a people so happy or so proud of their city and culture; and with their life and place in the world in general. From scenery to song, cuisine to artistic culture and spirits to sport, you will regularly hear Los Arequipeños refer to their brand of just about anything as ‘La mejor del Mundo!’ (the best in the world!). It is hard to disagree, and certainly admirable that the local people have such pride and contentment in their great white city.

Arequipa is enchanting. The traditional culture and natural beauty leave you wanting to see more.  I will be back, and who knows, perhaps I will utter the immortal words: “Ari, quipay!”.

Have you read the other posts in this series?

Part 2: Arequipa to Cusco

Part 3: Cusco

Part 4: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Part 5: Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes

Part 6: Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)