Tag Archive Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes is the last stop on the long road to Machu Picchu. Only a near-vertical hairpin dust road stands between the town and the Inca ruin, which is towering somewhere overhead, high above the clouds. Recently renamed Machu Picchu Pueblo, it is a very picturesque town with character and Inca tradition in abundance.

Incan fridge magnets in the craft market at Aguas Calientes, Peru

We had arrived into the station aboard an Inca Rail service, which had taken us on a scenic journey through the Urubamba River Valley. The first five minutes in Aguas Calientes are a bit of a fluster. Transitioning from dreamily weaving through dramatic scenery, to the crowded platforms of the little train station comes as a shock. You arrive along with several hundred other travelers, and immediately meet the same numbers standing in line, waiting to make the return journey. Add to this the unloading of all of the towns supplies, a few dozen canvassing travel reps and a maze of stalls selling crafts and souvenirs, and the result is quite the bottle-necked bazar.  Thankfully it wasn’t long until we saw a young woman holding up a card with our names on it, and so we happily trudged off, tracing her steps through the crowd.

Hand made jewelry in the craft market at Aguas Calientes, Peru

After walking through what seemed like the worlds largest, and most tightly packed craft market, we emerged onto the streets of the little town. We crossed a metal foot bridge, which spans a ravine, containing a crystal clear stream which was in full flood. We would later discover that a great secret lay further up the ravine. A rain shower passed over. The locals popped up umbrellas; obviously as accustomed to regular showers as this visiting Irishman. Turning right at the other side of the bridge, we joined a narrow street, and started climbing. There are no gentle gradients here. If you are going uphill, then it will be steep!

Shelter from the rain at Aguas Calientes

It came as a great relief when we checked in to our hotel and got to leave our bags down and go freshen up. And then, it was off to explore. Our first port of call was The Rasta Bar, where the upstairs floor did its best to convince us that it was actually a slide and not a restaurant floor. Maybe the earth moves here, Im not sure. Anyway, it was great preparation for getting around this quaint and sloping town. A quick lunch and several games of Jenga later (the town seems to have a fascination with Jenga), we were rolling downhill once again to the hotel.

On the hotel manager’s recommendation, we made a visit to to the town’s famous thermal spa, which is a short walk up into the ravine. I would imagine that Aguas Calientes may not be very pleasant for those with restricted mobility. The streets are very steep and narrow, and there are no taxi’s that I saw. We walked uphill, until the street gave way to a lovely path which followed the course of the ravine. After a couple of hundred yards, we arrived at the thermal spas which give the town its name (Aguas Calientes – ‘Hot Waters’ in Spanish).

The mountain stream at Aguas Clients

Thermal Spa high in the Andes

It is a magnificent experience to step into one of 3 hot outdoor pools, in a jungle ravine, high up in the Andes. There are people from all over the world here, just chilling out. You can order cocktails from the spa. This was exactly what I needed after 2 long days on the road from Arequipa! I laid back, and watched through the verdant overhead jungle vegetation, as the sky darkened towards nightfall. It was bliss. After being a little stressed with the busy train station and the crowded fuss on the platform, I was happy to have had this opportunity to relax and get back to myself. Something as simple as a busy train station may have been enough to trigger a lowering of tolerance, a lack of patience or a lack of awareness. That is all it can take. I was really happy to have this spa experience, which I used to get myself back on track.

Central plaza at Aguas Calientes, Peru

The spa had perked me up, restoring my energy, so afterwards we walked down towards the little central plaza near the train station. By chance we hooked up with other members of the wedding party who we had last seen on the snow-bound bus trip from Arequipa, and they led us to a bar where the remainder of the party were having drinks. We then had an impromptu group dinner which was an unexpected treat. Someone suggested having Cuy. I had read about this with both curiosity and trepidation. Pronounced ‘kwee’ it is essentially what we know in Europe as Guinea Pig. I played safe by ordering steak.

Architect-standard Jenga!

I had agreed with fellow traveller Tino, that I would share his Cuy. When it arrived, I had other ideas. The plate was set down and had the animals head and 4 legs dangling over the edges. I am normally open to trying new foods when I travel, but it took me around 20 minutes to accept a fork full. I chewed. But I could not bring myself to swallow. I just couldn’t get the idea of rodents out of my mind. I ran out onto the street and spat it out. A local having a smoke at a bar door laughed and asked: ‘Cuy?’ After I had emptied my mouth I said ‘si’. It probably tastes ok, but it just looks wrong.

Among the wedding after-party were 4 or 5 friends of the bride who had all met at Architecture college. The Jenga started again, this time on a whole different level! It occurred to me that maybe the reason Jenga is so popular here is that everyone is so enthralled by the construction of the ancient city up above us. Tino and another guy from Hawaii, were thankful that I wasn’t going to share the Cuy, and so they proceeded to devour the whole serving. To my horror, the piece de resistence was the animals head, which they shared. Apparently it is a great custom in this part of South America. Architect-standard Jenga kept me distracted, otherwise I may have been sick.

Yes, thats the Cuy head :/

We said our goodbyes and made our way back to our hotels. The others had arrived the previous night, and had therefore seen Machu Picchu already. But I was buzzing with anticipation for the trip the next morning. I found it hard to sleep. The alarm was set for 5am, and I got into that situation where when you think about how little time you have to sleep, you reduce your chances of sleeping. To solve this, I brought myself back to a Wild Atlantic Way experience I had back in Donegal the previous January. Visiting the ocean, or even thinking about a visit, always calms me, and I soon fell asleep, under about 6 Incan blankets. Thankfully, the Cuy did not visit me in my dreams.

At 6am we left our hotel and strolled down the streets towards the station. Busses commence at 6.30am, and I was shocked to see that there was already a long line. As Aguas Calientes began to start its day, we boarded a bus and took what is without doubt the most hair-raising road trip I have ever been on. The distance traveled, as the crow flies, is not far. Probably 2 miles at most. You are basically driving up into the sky, turning around hairpin after hairpin on a bumpy, narrow dust road. The Urubamba river looks smaller and smaller with every turn. I closed my eyes when we met a bus coming down the mountain. It just didn’t look possible to pass by each other on this narrow ledge. We took the inside and the rear view mirror clipped an overhanging branch. My eyes popped open to see the other bus whizzing past ours – both drivers smiling and waving at each other. I was seriously looking forward to getting off this bus. I would advise anyone with a fear of heights, to avoid the window seat while traveling up to Machu Picchu. As nervous as I was, I was still very excited. We rounded one final hairpin, and came to a stop in a tiny bus park. At last! After traveling the long but scenic road from Arequipa, we had finally arrived at Machu Picchu!

The almost vertical hairpin road to Machu Picchu

It was still not yet 7am and already there was a line at the ticket office/security check. But we had arrived! I took a deep breath and took a moment to myself, to ensure that I would enjoy every minute of this visit. I knew that a great adventure lay ahead. Passing through the entrance, the first sunbeams of the rising sun lit up the world famous ruins. It was a sight that made ever mile of the arduous journey worthwhile. Yes, even the hairpin road part. The peace and beauty is almost tangible up here in the Andes. The picture cover of my childhood South America encyclopedia had come to life.

There is a beautiful feeling of serenity at the spectacular former Incan city of Machu Picchu. The long road through the Andes to this remote paradise is not so well acclaimed, but is also very special. This is a journey unlike any you will ever have undertaken before, and it will stay with you forever. Getting to the jewel of the Sacred Valley can be costly and time consuming, but it is a journey which is to be enjoyed rather than endured. This is my 6-part travelogue, revealing the highlights of the road to Machu Picchu, including Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

While the small but busy Sacred Valley town of Ollantaytambo is attractive on it’s own merits, with Inca ruins and riverside setting, one amenity above all others attracts many of the visitors who pass through here; the train station.

Unless you were to go off-grid and (attempt to) hike over the towering Andes mountains, there is but one way to get to Machu Picchu; by first making the journey from Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes by train. Considering that up to 5,000 visitors filter through Machu Picchu on a busy day, Ollantaytambo is a very busy little place. The entire town is like a cross between a mini Machu Picchu, a souvenir shop, a cargo hanger and a travel rep’s office. Everybody, and everything that goes to Machu Picchu, must pass through here – including all food and provisions for Aguas Calientes.

We had arrived into the Sacred Valley by taxi from Cusco with just over 20 minutes to spare before our pre-booked train departure time. The road to the station, the limited drop-off point and the platform were crowded with tourists, bags, craft stalls, travel guides, goods transportation and train workers. It was a huge relief to finally board the train and find a seat. Around two minutes later, the whistle blew, and we were off!

Onboard the Inca Rail train

We were on board a train operated by Inca Rail, which had large carriage windows supplemented by overhead skylights. We were soon to discover why the rail company had the foresight to include the additional glass. As soon as we moved from the platform, we were immediately in the middle of a scenic river valley, the likes of which I have never seen before. On one side of the train, the fast flowing waters of the Urubamba River race right by the tracks, and on the other side, the tiny patchwork of fields very quickly give way to the sometimes almost vertical walls of The Sacred Valley. The views are simply spectacular.

Train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

The tree-lined Urubamba River Valley

Everyone in our carriage was mesmerized by the passing scenery. Everyone that is except for a Brazilian tourist who was sitting on the opposite side of the table from me. Having seen my Tottenham Hotspur shirt, he was determined to strike up a soccer centered conversation. So much so, that he proceeded to lay the shirt of his preferred team out on the table, and insist that I photograph it, with said Brazilian beaming in the background. I obliged, and quickly returned to admiring the views. I love Tottenham, and soccer, but these views were too amazing to miss!

My Brazilian soccer friend

The train ride takes approximately 90 minutes, with the return leg lasting a full 2 hours. The additional 30 minutes can be accounted for by the fact that this is the Andes, and even though the train line is on what you would think is a relatively flat bed, Peruvian logic still holds true: when you are traveling you are either going uphill or downhill. We were currently moving downhill, following the banks of the Urubamba River. I tried to imagine how powerful the force of this water must be when the river is in flood.

I get a lot of thought stimulation from water, which I think is a welcome byproduct of my love of the ocean, waves and rugged coastlines. I see symbolism in water, and it really helps me to become aware of the present moment. So it occurred to me, that this part of the river valley would often suddenly experience a raging torrent, even if it had not rained in this particular section. The flood would quickly arrive from upstream. I reasoned that in life, the same scenario can occur. In a butterfly effect, even if we are serene and calm ourselves, someone else’s actions can send a sudden and unexpected torrent our way. Just as the people in The Sacred Valley have strategically placed boulders by the banks while the water was low, preparing in advance of the flood, we too can brace ourselves by building strong defenses when there is calmness. Knowing ourselves, and understanding our reactions is one of the keys to wellbeing. Often, our troubles can come not from our own actions, but from our reaction to someone else’s action. At that moment, upon such a realization, I felt completely at peace. Somehow, the Urubamba River had shown me how to be focused and aware, how to enjoy this moment, yet to use this peaceful time to ensure that I would completely enjoy Machu Picchu.

Traveling by train deep into the wilderness

The sides of the valley are as fascinating as the river itself. Having approached from Cusco, we had traversed agricultural uplands. But now we had entered into a region of Peru which has more in common with the Amazonian jungle terrain on the other side of the Andes. The steep walls of the valley are almost completely covered with tress, resulting in the sharpest gradient of leafy canopy imaginable. Sporadic clouds hover overhead; high above the train, yet still a long way beneath the snow capped peaks of the surrounding mountain range.

Inca Rail en route to Machu Picchu

Down and around we went, steadily venturing deeper and deeper into the very heart of this timeless terrain, moving further away from the busy world. I pondered what this journey must have been like in previous centuries. It is little wonder that Machu Picchu remained unseen during the Spanish Conquistador’s foray into this region of South America. The valley walls are impossibly steep. In the days before planes and railways, even if for some reason the Spanish had decided to trek all the way along this bank, or raft down the river itself, Machu Picchu would not have revealed itself. The walls supporting the Inca city look just like the walls all along the entire journey. Furthermore, the terraced nature of Machu Picchu’s construction means that from up high, the river is clearly visible, but from the depths of the river valley looking upwards, Machu Picchu, blends into the wilderness like a chameleon.

Small potato field by the rail track

Even Hiram Bingham, the inquisitive American academic who finally discovered Machu Picchu and revealed it’s secret’s to the world in 1911, was apparently only able to do so having first being given guidance by indigenous farmers. The topography along the train road from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, gives a strong demonstration of just how well the Inca’s chose this now famous, but once hidden treasure.

Table service onboard Inca Rail

In a world apart from Bingham’s original travel experience, we meandered effortlessly down the valley while comfortably sitting on leather upholstered seats, availing of table service, affording us the opportunity to fully marvel at this unique adventure. The train ride perfectly sets the tone for a visit to Machu Picchu. You cannot help but dream of hidden worlds and lost treasures. The clickety-clack of the train passing over the sleeps and the amazing scenery seemed to cast a mystical spell over all on board.  Time seemed to both stand still, yet pass by too quickly.

There is little in the landscape to signal the approach to the end of the line at Aguas Calientes. The town clings tightly to steep ground which is much like the rest of the valley. As the train slowed on approach, I looked through the open window to survey what lay ahead. A simple but distinctive grass roofed cafe greeted our arrival at this quaint, busy, yet very welcoming station and town. As the train finally came to a stop, my emotions were happiness, excitement and relief. I had arrived!

Distinctive grass roofed cafe at the station

Much like my fellow European explorers several centuries before me, I still had no idea where Machu Picchu was. But I knew I was close. So close now in fact, that the list of possible yet unlikely events which could have derailed this amazing trip, had now shortened considerably.

Stepping from the train onto the Aguas Calientes platform, you do so in the knowledge that you are now only one night’s sleep and a short, but ultimately very steep, bus ride away from one of the most beautiful places in the whole world. Gratitude now prevailed.

Have you read the other posts in this series?

Part 1: Arequipa

Part 2: Arequipa to Cusco

Part 3: Cusco

Part 4: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Part 6: Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)